Question:
Looking to buy the Lishi HU100R pick
Anyone know the difference between V2 and V3?
Which is the one to buy?
Suggestions:
Always best to go for latest version as will have the latest improvements on it. though saying that i still have and use a lot of the old v1 2in1 tools that were just for doors , older more worn locks tend to read better on the older dedicated door tool, the shoulder reductions and blade extensions on the ignition tools can cause miss reads on the door if not careful to ensure pick is dead square during decode, dedicated door tool i find better on door for quick accurate decode.
the first v1 tool was great on the earlier versions of this lock, but wouldn’t get full insertion in slightly later models so v2 was released to sort this, v3 was then released to deal with sunken locks that v2 couldn’t get. v3 will get all , and v1 will be more accurate in older lock versions, each has their place and uses, but if only going for 1 tool then the v3 is best coverage.
I’ve been to quite a few jobs where someone has failed to decode lock due to using an ignition enabled tool and not having the tool dead square when decoding, all blame the tool of course.
It’s well worth having some of the old dedicated 2in1 tools v1, especially on those that the extended tools can miss read, especially on older edge keys .
the door will open perfect as you decoded the wafers in the door.
if instacode gave 3 choices, select cutting tree and it will tell you the order to try in and how many possible blades.
personally, i use the 10 cut direct reader, i pick and decode the door with dedicated door tool, then use the 10 cut direct reader to read cuts 1 and 2 in ignition, never lets me down.
the NSN14 ignition tool is necessary to get full insertion in later door locks like the juke etc , the old door only tool doesn’t get full insertion in some later locks.
the door and ignition direct readers are also very useful .
